WINES of the WEEK, 25 February 2011

Better late than never. Don't ask. OK, let's just say that enjoying myself in the Napa Valley and failing to sync the ipad correctly combined to get in the way.

2007 Montana ‘T’ Terraces Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand

Montana’s top pinot noir, and very sumptuous it is – deep flavour, long finish. It comes from the Wairau Valley part of Marlborough and has an expansive, sweet, pinot noir perfume, lush, cherry and plum fruit flecked with vanilla, savoury richness and a lovely, silken texture. It’s ready now, but isn’t going to fall off its perch anytime soon. 14% abv.

£14.81, Gondola Wine; £15.59, Ocado

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Fino del Puerto Sherry, Jerez, Spain

Delicious, fresh and equally complex fino from the house of Lustau. On the one hand Marmitey, savoury, smoky and nutty; on the other tinglingly lemony and fresh. It could hardly be better – and certainly not at this price. 16.5% abv

£8.19, Waitrose

WINES of the WEEK, 18 February 2011

Three wines from Jeroboams tasting in London last month. It was a very good line-up, although a couple of reds were showing a touch more brett than I like.

2008 Stratagème Argile, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

A dry white made from traditional Languedoc varieties (mainly grenache blanc and bourboulenc) by Thierry Rodriguez. Rich, dry and fresh on the nose, with succulent citrus fruit, steely mineral flavours and good acidity on the palate. 12.5% abv. There’s a good red Saint-Chinian too, Stratagème Schistes, but I particularly like this white and the Saint-Chinian below.

£11.95, or £10.76 by the case, Jeroboams

2008 Col d’Arribat Saint-Chinian Roquebrun

A warm, spicy, garrigue-scented nose and a mouthful of fresh, sweet, sun-warmed berries and earthy spice, all lightly upholstered with ripe tannins. 13.5% abv.

£9.75, or £8.78 by the case, Jeroboams

2007 Il Casalone Poggio Colombi, Toscana Maremma, Italy

A convincing Italian take on Bordeaux grape varieties – 90% cabernet sauvignon and 10% petit verdot – from coastal Tuscany. Sweet herbs and chocolate-coated cherries on the nose; a ripe, full palate with spicy sweetness, savoury richness and a gentle chewiness. A very fair price for an estate-produced Tuscan red of this quality. 14% abv.

£10.95, or £9.86 by the case, Jeroboams.

WINES of the WEEK, 11 February 2011

2010 Seven Springs Sauvignon Blanc, Overberg, South Africa

A first, small vintage – only 4400 bottles – from vines planted in 2007 by Tim Pearson, whose day job is MD of his Warwickshire (UK) cleaning company. The vineyard – 12 hectares but not all planted yet – is at the foot of Shaws Mountain, 20km from Hermanus in Walker Bay, and the debut 2010 sauvignon is zesty and vivacious, with greengage and apricot fruit, a lightly textured mid-palate and a dry, bright finish with just a hint of minerality. Not complex, but a really enjoyable, reviving glass of wine and, with age, the vines should produce tighter, more concentrated, perhaps more mineral-tasting wines. 13.5% abv. A chardonnay, syrah and pinot noir are all in the pipeline.

£9.95–£10.14, barwines.co.uk, proteaswines.co.uk, underwoodwines.co.uk; 7springs.co.za

2006 Château Civrac, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux

It wasn’t intentional but there’s a bit of an ex-pat theme this week: Civrac belongs to Cornishman Mark Hellyar. The 2006 is nicely meaty and supple – richer and more succulent than the 2007 – and has perfumy, sweet fruit, subtly toasty oak and a convincing, earthy-mineral undertow. It’s half merlot and 25% each malbec and cabernet sauvignon. Olivier Dauga is the consultant. All in all, a very good, modern but authentic Bordeaux. 13% abv.

£15, civrac.com, and other stockists as listed on the website

2008 Taste the Difference Douro, Portugal

There’s nothing new about this. It’s here as a reminder that it’s a useful, good-value red – a stalwart of Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference range. Smoky and meaty with warm, ripe black fruit on the the nose; pepper, blackberries and woodsmoke on the palate; medium-full with softly grainy tannins and a satisyingly dry finish. 13.5% abv.

£7.99, Sainsbury’s

WINES of the WEEK, 4 February 2011

2009 Moncaro Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Marche, Italy

Nutty-straw nose and a fresh, well-rounded palate with crisp, herbal flavours and broader, nuttier notes; medium-bodied and dry, but not bone-dry, with an appetisingly crisp finish. A really useful, good value white that works with or without food. 12.8% abv.

£4.99, Waitrose

2008 Heinrich Hartl Rotgipfler, Thermenregion, Austria

You read that right: rotgipfler. It’s a white grape variety – begat by roter veltliner and traminer, but don’t worry about it. The wine is mouth-filling, slightly oily in texture (nicely so) and off-dry, with a honeyed, citrus and sweet-earth perfume and slightly spicy, candied citrus and peach flavours. Drink it on its own or with something a bit spicy. 13% abv.

£15.99, WaitroseWineDirect

2008 Heinrich Hartl St-Laurent Classic, Thermenregion, Austria

Herr Hartl’s st-laurent (yes, red grape variety) is a delicious Austrian alternative to red burgundy and New Zealand pinot noir. It has a fragrance and flavour of fresh, sweet cherries and rose petals with a hint of spice wrapped in a satin-smooth texture. Pure and elegant. 12.5% abv.

£15.99, WaitroseWineDirect

WINES of the WEEK, 21 January 2011

2009 Rijks Private Cellar Touch of Oak Chenin Blanc, Coastal, South Africa

Crème fraiche, delicate smoky bacon and a sappy freshness on the nose; fresh, medium-full palate with citrus fruit, some white pepper and spice, a rounded, creamy texture, and a crisp, slightly salty, mineral finish. All in all, an excellent, food-friendly chenin. 13.5% abv.

£15.99, Virgin Wines

2009 Finca Laderas Espiago, Calatayud, Spain

An unfiltered, old-vine garnacha blend made by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson in the hills of Calatayud in Aragon. Full bodied, dense and grainy, with delicious sweet redcurrant fruit and dark, savoury licorice notes. 14% abv. Perfect cold-weather wine.

£10.99, Virgin Wines

2009 Tabalí Late Harvest Muscat, Limari, Chile

A very useful, good value pudding wine. Intensely sweet, honeyed, floral and grapefruity, with touches of spice and cocoa, a smooth, round texture and balancing acidity to give it a bright, clean finish. 12.5% abv.

£6.49 a half-bottle, Virgin Wines

WINES of the WEEK, 14 January 2011

M&S has some good things in its sale, on until 30 January in-store and also on-line.

2009 Quadro Sei Gavi, Piedmont, Italy

M&S has dropped the price of this Piedmont white by £2 because the 2010 vintage is waiting in the wings, but this is still appetisingly lively, with sappy, fresh pear flavours and soft, lime juice acidity. Much better than any pinot grigio I can think of at a fiver. 12% abv.

£4.99, Marks & Spencer

2009 Cartagena Tres Viñedos Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio Valley, Chile

One of Chile’s exciting cool-climate coastal sauvignons, reduced by £3 in the sale. Intense and structured, with smoky mineral and briny notes breaking through the zesty, concentrated elderflower and fresh green-bean/asparagus fruit. In an ideal world, I’d rather it wasn’t 14% abv, but the wine carries it effortlessly enough.

£6.99, Marks & Spencer

2008 Minervois, France

An oak-aged Syrah, Grenache and Carignan blend made for M&S by Gerard Bertrand. Well-rounded and modern, but with authentic flavours of the south – spice and garrigue, ripe berry fruit and warm earth. 13.5% abv. Down £2 in the sale.

£4.99, Marks & Spencer

WINES of the WEEK, 7 January 2011

Majestic has picked up a parcel of wines from Constellation at some pretty nifty prices. Mind you, they’re not necessarily bargains, even at rockbottom prices. The 2008 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Sauvignon is only £3.99, but the bottle I tried was as dead as a dodo. And the 2008 Woodbridge Merlot (£3.99) wasn’t a whole lot better – muddy, jammy fruit with charred, vanilla oak flavours. I wonder, if these had been screwcapped, they’d have been better? Certainly the oldest wine of this Californian trio, the screwcapped 2007 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Shiraz (13.5% abv) was the freshest and best, with a convincing spicy berry and pepper shiraz character. Good value at £3.99. Better still were the three wines below at £4.99. But just before you dash to your local Majestic, check that the wines have arrived: they’re due in over the next week.

2008 Houghton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Western Australia

Same vintage as the Mondavi Woodbridge Sauvignon, but screwcapped and infinitely fresher, with the toasted character of maturing semillon combined with tropical fruit and refreshing, sharp, lemon-zest acidity. 12.5% abv. Some of the stock is 2007, which I haven’t tasted. £4.99, Majestic.

2008 Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot, Western Australia

A deep coloured, big, chunky, but fresh red blend. Ripe, inky blackcurrant fruit with spice, creamy toffee and chocolaty oak flavours. 14% abv. Again, some of the stock is 2007, which I haven’t tasted. £4.99, Majestic.

2007 Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel, Calfornia

This has stood up well to its three-and-a-bit years under a synthetic cork, but I wouldn’t keep it beyond 2011. Medium-full and butter-smooth, with bright, blueberry fruit, typical zin spice flavours and spicy oak. 13.5% abv. £4.99, Majestic.

WINES of the WEEK, 31 December 2010

2009 Nicosia Fondo Filara, Etna Bianco, Sicily

Even allowing for my unashamed Sicilian bias, this is a delightful and very good white. Aromas of lime, peach and apple, then a flavour that is closer to pears with a dash of spice; medium-weight with a silky-soft texture and a fresh, bright finish. 13% abv.

£10.95, The Wine Society

2005 Château Ricaud, Bordeaux Supérieur

Nicely evolved, modern Bordeaux, perfect for drinking now. Sweet, fleshy fruit rounded out with soft oak against a background of spicy cedar and supple tannins; polished, dry finish. Good value, unlike so much Bordeaux. 13% abv.

The Wine Society.

Noval 40 Year Old Tawny Port

One of this Christmas’s most enjoyed and admired wines chez nous. Sumptuous, complex, rich yet fresh 40 year old, with flavours of spicy fudge, dried figs, coffee and candied peel. Like liquid panforte, but better. Fabulous on its own, but concentrated and complex enough to stand up to cheese, including stilton (or a particularly good Colston Bassett anyway) and dark chocolate. 20% abv.

£81.99–£85, simplywinesdirect.com; onlinespirits.co.uk; Berry Bros & Rudd.

WINES of the WEEK, 23 December 2010

Some extra wines this week for those who are still dashing about stocking up for the festivities – and perhaps even more for those who haven’t even started.

2008 Jean Bourguignon Meursault

Good Meursault at an attractive price – all the more so when you buy two or more bottles. The fresh, tangy candied-citrus fruit is already hinting at the honey to come and the oak gives a nutty, delicately buttery richness in the background. 12.5% abv. Ready now – in fact delicious this Christmas or next.

£17.99 or £14.99 if you buy two or more bottles, Majestic

2009 Costero Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda, Chile

Bracingly fresh and mineral Chilean Sauvignon (better than a cold shower on Boxing Day morning?). It has an almost sea-salty edge to the grassy, lemony fruit and there’s just a hint of spice adding extra interest. The Leyda Valley seems to be able to do no wrong with Sauvignon at the moment. 13.5% abv.

£6.99, down from £8.74 until the end of January, Majestic.

2010 Stonebridge Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

It’s not hard to find New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at a fiver in the UK at present, but this one is better than many, though not to my taste as exciting as the Leyda (above). Crunchily fresh, herbal and nettly with ripe gooseberry fruit and a whisper of something textured and mineral. 13.5% abv.

£4.99, down from £9.99, until January 4, 2011, The Co-operative

Charles de Cazanove Champagne Brut NV

This doesn’t get points for elegance or subtlety, but it does get marks for character and ageing – and it’s at a knockdown price. Generously flavoured and proportioned with honeyed, biscuity and toasty flavours complemented by freshness. It’s 60% pinot noir and 15% each of pinot meunier and chardonnay. 12% abv.

£14.99, down from £29.99 until January 4, 2011, The Co-operative.

2009 Gérard Charvet La Réserve d’Amélie Moulin-à-Vent

I can’t keep away from these 2009 Beaujolais – not that I’m trying to. This is vivid, ripe and mouthfilling, with cherry, spice, black-fruit and mineral flavours, and it has the tannin, acidity and depth of fruit to develop over five years, if you can resist drinking it now. 13% abv.

£12.49, or £9.99 when you buy two or more, Majestic

WINES of the WEEK, 16 December 2010

My nearest supermarket is Morrisons. Second closest is the Co-operative. Yes, I’ve thought about moving, but it’s easier just to shop elsewhere. To be fair, both do have some good wines, the Co-operative notably more than Morrisons, but distribution is patchy. If you’re doing some eleventh-hour stocking up at either this coming week, I hope you’ll be able to find these.

2008 Nicolas Potel Montagny 1er Cru

This wine needs to breathe to soften its sharp, tangy-lemon acidity, so decant it into a jug or pour small amounts into large glasses and give a good swirl. Once you’ve done that, you’ve got classic chardonnay from Burgundy – nutty, waxy and appley in flavour with just a touch of oak in the background. Subtle and satisfying. 13% abv.

£9.99 (until 4 January 2011, then back to £14.99), The Co-operative

2009 L’Oustalet Réserve Côtes du Rhône

Succulent, supple red Rhône, full of southern warmth and bonhomie, yet full of appetising freshness too. Ripe berries, spicy black-pepper flavours, a rich velvety texture – and great value at the offer price. 13.5% abv.

£5.99 (until 4 January 2011, then back to £10.99), The Co-operative

2010 Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River, Australia

Fresh and aromatic, lightly oaked sauvignon-semillon blend – Western Australia’s answer to white Graves. Zesty fresh herb, melon and grapefruit flavours rounded out with soft, coffeeish oak; dry, medium-bodied, nicely incisive but not aggressive. 12.5% abv.

£10.99, Morrisons

2008 Vasse Felix Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River, Australia

An enticingly aromatic, richly fruity, dry red from Western Australia. Smoky, minty and leafy on the nose, with intense cassis fruit, dark chocolate and a roast-chestnut richness, sweetness and smokiness from ageing in oak. A perfect balance of freshness and roundness for drinking now. 14.5% abv.

£10.99, Morrisons

WINES of the WEEK, 9 December 2010

A Christmassy trio from Flint Wines, following a tasting of their wines in London last month at which I was mightily impressed, as I was last year by one of their Spanish whites, Viña Somoza Sobre Lias (Classico), a godello from Valdeorras (recommended here on 18 Sept 09).

Doyard Cuvée Vendémiaire Champagne NV

It’s always a treat to find a new grower’s champagne to recommend – new to me anyway. This is a Blanc de Blancs from five grands crus, together with the premier cru Vertus where Doyard is based, and it’s a blend of 2001, 2002 and 2004, half barrel-fermented. The oak gives a touch of straw and honey to the aromatic, fresh apple and pear flavours and a sleekness and roundness to the texture. Fine and long. 12.5% abv.

£27.95, Flint Wines

2007 Domaine André Kientzler Pinot Blanc, Alsace

More expensive than most Alsace Pinot Blanc, but well worth it – this is a very sophisticated example. Fragrant, fresh and floral, with taut, nicely concentrated apple and apricot fruit and a touch of cream. Silky textured and perfectly balanced. 12.5% abv.

£11.50, Flint Wines

2007 Cristom Vineyards Mount Jefferson Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon

It’s a bit contrary to choose this when Flint is known for its burgundies and showed a fistful of good ones, but this is so delicious and seductive – fleshier and a little less savoury than red burgundy. Very aromatic and sweet-scented, but fresh and pure at the same time, with succulent red berry fruit, supple oak and a hint of fragrant herbs. Not too alcoholic either: 13.5% abv.

£24.99, Flint Wines

WINES of the WEEK 3 December 2010

2008 Weingut Eichinger Riesling Strasse Heiligenstein, Kamptal

Terrific Austrian riesling. Heady, floral, mineral nose and a palate that combines honeyed, textured richness with piercing lemon fruit and steely acidity. Long, dry finish. 13% abv. Drink now to 2018, with fish and shellfish, things in creamy sauces and lightly spiced dishes.

£263.88 for 12, armit

2004 Chateau Lalande Borie, Saint-Julien

Another 2004 red Bordeaux this week, but a Left Bank wine which, like a lot of middle-range wines from this (largely hype-free) vintage, has evolved early and prettily. That’s not to say it’s about to start its descent: it’s in its prime and will remain there for a few years. Sweet, cigar-box spice with some savoury richness; velvet texture with a gentle nip of acidity for freshness; soft, round and plump, rather than concentrated, and everything in balance. A good Christmas wine (or Christmas present wine), though perhaps better with a rib of beef or leg of lamb than an assault course of powerful, sweet and sharp sauces and stuffings. 13% abv.

£129.41 for 6, armit

2004 Quinta do Noval LBV port

An LBV port, but not the usual commercial style. This one, although delicious now, will mature in the same way as a vintage port, throwing a sediment as it goes. It’s also a single quinta LBV: all the grapes come from the estate and are trodden in lagars, whereas previously some grapes were bought in; hence the change of name to Quinta do Noval LBV, rather than just Noval. Back to the port: kirsch, plums, ripe figs and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose; deep, rich and succulent flavours of spicy, chocolate-coated fruitcake; fine-grained tannins. 19.5% abv. Apart from with the obvious Stilton and Stitchelton, it goes brilliantly with dark chocolate. Try the red-fruit flavoured one which Rococo created specially for it.

£17.99, or £14.39 in a mixed dozen, Oddbins; also Ocado and independents.