Petit Manseng
and Gros Manseng and their support cast of Petit Courbu and Arrufiac, in
Pacherenc du Vic Bihl and Saint-Mont, south west France.
These notes and
recommendations are prompted by a tasting I gave last week to some MW students and for
whom the quality and styles of the Manseng-based whites, dry and sweet, were a
revelation. As one of them tweeted afterwards: “still thinking about the
Mansengs. Such an underrated duo. Time to stock my cupboards before the world
finds out”. My sentiments exactly. I fell for the two Mansengs in the late
1980s when I came across Jurançon and haven’t looked back.
Gros and Petit Manseng
The Mansengs
are aromatic, thick-skinned, high-acid varieties. Neither has large berries but
those of Gros Manseng are larger – hence the name – as are the bunches
themselves. Gros Manseng is also higher yielding and there’s more of it planted
(almost three times as much in 2009, according to Wine Grapes). Petit Manseng has thicker skins and produces more
intensely flavoured, concentrated wines which have greater finesse and dry on
the vines more readily in the autumn to produce, intensely sweet, luscious
wines with thrilling acidity.
Markers
Gros Manseng: aromatic, intensely fruity; quince, tropical fruit, grapefruit; sometimes spice; medium-high to high acidity.
Petit Manseng: aromatic, intensely fruity; distinguished from Gros Manseng by apricot, or sometimes white peach, and sometimes floral aromas; quince, citrus; high acidity.
Petit Courbu: citrus, floral notes, ripe fruit; high acidity.
Arrufiac: delicate aromas, suppleness; can have a subtle citrus-pith bitterness.
Markers
Gros Manseng: aromatic, intensely fruity; quince, tropical fruit, grapefruit; sometimes spice; medium-high to high acidity.
Petit Manseng: aromatic, intensely fruity; distinguished from Gros Manseng by apricot, or sometimes white peach, and sometimes floral aromas; quince, citrus; high acidity.
Petit Courbu: citrus, floral notes, ripe fruit; high acidity.
Arrufiac: delicate aromas, suppleness; can have a subtle citrus-pith bitterness.
Dry (sec) Pacherenc du Vic Bilh
Pacherenc du
Vic-Bihl is the white wine, both dry and sweet, of the Madiran red wine region,
although much less white wine is produced. Traditionally the dry wine is Gros
Manseng-dominated, with Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu supporting it and very
occasionally a little Arrufiac, but Petit Manseng-dominated wines have gained
ground. The wines from Château Laffitte-Teston and Château Aydie, below, both
contain more Petit Manseng than Gros.
Recommended:
Château
Laffitte-Teston Ericka 201, £12.15, The Sampler
Domaine
Capmartin 2012, £12.50 Great Western Wine
Château Aydie
d’Odé Aydie 2011 (available elsewhere in Europe; www.famillelaplace.com)
Sweet (moelleux) Pacherenc du Vic Bilh
Predominantly
Petit Manseng, usually with some Gros Manseng and sometimes some Petit Courbu,
but sometimes 100% Petit Manseng,
Recommended:
Saint-Albert
2011 (Cave de Crouseille), £13.95 for 50cl, Corney & Barrow
Folie de Roi
2010 (Cave de Crouseille, 64350 Crouseilles; www.crouseilles.com)
Château
Arricau-Bordes 2010 (Le Chai, 64350 Arricau Bordes; email alipaul@hotmail.fr)
Château Aydie
2010 (www.famillelaplace.com)
Domaine
Laougué, Tradition 2011 (www.domaine-laougue.fr)
Saint Mont blanc
All Saint-Mont
white wine is dry and is a blend of three of the following four varieties: Gros
Manseng, Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac. (and all white wine
producers must have 20% each of the last three in their vineyards). In practice
most blends are predominantly Gros Manseng with some Petit Courbu and Arrufiac,
a variety which has made a comeback from near extinction in the 1980s. Less
white wine is produced than either red or rosé – a shame. Almost all wine is
produced by the co-operative Producteurs Plaimont which pretty well created the
appellation in 1981 (a VDQS elevated to PDO in 2011).
Recommended:
Le Passé
Authentique 2010, 2011 (Producteurs Plaimont), £9.99, Waitrose,
Le Faite 2007,
2009, 2010, 2011, (Producteurs
Plaimont), £17.00–£18.95, Weavers
of Nottingham, Portland Wine, Bordeaux & Beyond
L’Empreinte de
Saint Mont 2010 (Producteurs Plaimont), £13.29, Adnams Cellar & Kitchen
Les Vignes
Retrouvées 2010 (Producteurs Plaimont), £10.99, The Smiling Grape Company
Les Hauts de
Bergelle blanc 2011 (Producteurs Plaimont), £7.99, Majestic
Saint-Mont
2011, £7.99, Marks & Spencer
postscript: Petit
courbu
Château Montus
makes a dry Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh from 100% petit courbu, vintages of I’ve
liked very much in the past, but for which I don’t have a sufficiently recent
tasting note (Highbury Vintners and Hennings list the 2010 (£25–£26.50).